ÍndicePortalBuscarMiembrosRegistrarseConectarse

Responder al temaComparte | 
 

 compilado de tacticas elfas silvanas (ingles tomado de ninth age)

Ver el tema anterior Ver el tema siguiente Ir abajo 
AutorMensaje
daruk_el_rojo
Flagelante Feliz
avatar

Club : Flagelante Feliz
Cargo :
  • Webmaster (Facebook)

Director de Gremio :
  • Señor de la Guerra (Wargames)

Títulos : Maestro forjador
Mensajes : 6107

MensajeTema: compilado de tacticas elfas silvanas (ingles tomado de ninth age)   Lun Jun 20, 2016 9:59 pm

Elven Tactics Compilation


  • [size=16]SmithFFriday, 2:32pm+16[/size]

    NEW

    Greetings!

    In the past few weeks I've spent some of my hobby time writing tactics articles in the elven subforums, each discussing a different aspect of the game. (mainly from a Sylvan Elf perspective). Even though the tactics are focused on elves, a good deal of them can be "ported" to other races with a little bit of work. So I thought I'd share these with you, since I'm fairly certain that most of you do not venture into the sylvan elf subforum:


    Getting the Secondary Objectives: Sylvan Elves in the brave new world.


    If there is one thing that 9th brought into the game, it is objectives. In tourrnament play, these count for 3 points, while denying your opponent another 3. This is a 6 point differential that can make the difference between a loss and a win (or at least a draw).

    A frequently discussed issue on the forums is how the SE are not well equipped to play the objective game, due to their hit-and-run, guerilla warfare style. The more I play 9th Age games, the more I believe that this is not true: we have all the tools necessary tograb the objectives, but there are some things to take into consideration:


    1. Patience!

    The goal of the game is to hold the secondary objectives with more scoring units than your opponent by the end of turn 6. Getting there early (in the take-and-hold scenarios) will not accomplish anything. This is where most of the critics about the relationship of SE with secondary objectives stem from: there are only a couple of units in our book capable of grinding the opposition one-on-one, so it is in your best interest to take your time and plan ahead to get the objective during late game.


    2. Non-scoring units are VERY important:

    You can also consider these as the heavy lifters in your army: these are the units that you can risk to kill the enemy scorers and to do most of your fighting. Losing them will "only" lose you victory points, but it won't give away any banner points and it won't hamper your chances of winning the objective. This becomes a lot more important in the "breakthrough" and the "capture the flags" scenarios.

    Putting a banner on every unit with scoring potential may seem like a good idea, but it will probably come back to haunt you whenever you roll the "capture the flag" scenario. It is your opponent who decides which ones of your units are the targets, and it is easier to keep safe a unit that is kitted out for close combat (big unit of Rangers/Forest Guardians or Thicket Beasts comes to mind), or units that will probably be out of combat and as far away from action as possible (Sylvan Archers and/or small Heath Riders are in this category).

    So while MSU Forest Rangers are awesome, they are perhaps not the most efficient of scoring units for the reasons outlined above. Or they may be, depending on your battle plan.
    But the bottom line is: pick your scoring units wisely, and do bring a number of non-scoring units that can have an impact on the battle; there will be times when your scorers will have to just bide their time while the Treefathers and Bladedancers do their thing.




    3. Getting the first turn is a TRAP!

    Yes, you heard me. It may seem counter-intuitive, but it is my firm belief that in most cases, playing second is a boon:
    First off, the moment you forget about going first, you start outdeploying your opponent. If anything, Sylvan Elves can bring more units than most armies out there, and also have the mobility to rapidly redeploy if need be. So getting your matchups right is more critical than getting that first volley off. (as a plus, you WILL get the first volley anyway; more on that later)

    Vanguarding units play a huge role in that pre-game sequence. You can drop the kestrels to confuse your opponent, then vanguardthem 12" behind cover and closer to another part of the battlefield. On a side note: NEVER vanguard to a place where it will give your opponent a chance to jump your fast units. It is rarely worth it, unless you are 100% sure you'll get the first turn.

    A weakness of the elves is that they're not very resilient and die in droves to enemy fire. Going second means that the first turn volley of a dedicated shooting army will probably do nothing to your troops: you get a free forest to hide in, you've got brilliantly resilient skirmishers to screen your T3 elves, you've got Thicket Beasts to hide your shapeshifters behind. And more importantly, you've got Sylvan ArchersSentinels and Pathfinders who can move between 5 and 10" and shoot without incurring any penalties.

    Use this to your advantage, grab some cover and weather the initial volley. Then you get to do your thing!

    What does that get you, objective-wise? It gives you the opportunity to move your fragile scoring units in position at the bottom of turn 6, without risking anything. 5 Heath rIders with banner will die to a stiff breeze, but with their 18" march move they can contest or claim the central objective from half across the battlefield. The same applies to the Secure target objective and to the Breakthrough.

    Now that the general considerations are done, lets move to the specifics of each scenario:


    i) Hold Ground:
    For this one you will need to decide whether your army is build to take and hold the objective early on, or contest it. This becomes apparent from list design; if your main combat unit is 8 Thicket Beasts with a Shepherd BSB, then this unit will probably march into the objective, and invite anyone and anything to come and get it. While not that subtle, it gives a certain advantage: if you get there first, the opponent will have to give you an opening if he wants to contest it: he'll have to give the Thicket Beasts a charge.

    On the other hand, if your biggest unit is a unit of 10 Forest Rangers, then it's clear that your goal is to single out the enemy support, kill it fast and then focus on the scoring units: you will want to either strike fast during endgame, or not strike at all: moving more scoring units within 6" of the center than your opponent will also do the trick.


    ii) Secure Target:
    This one is tricky, I've been trying to decide what the best approach to this scenario is. Getting to place one of the objectives is like saying: this is where the fight is going to be. Or it can also be interpreted as: one of your scoring units will be out of action for the entire game.

    The advantages of each approach depend on what the opposition is bringing. it goes without saying that if the opponent has long-ranged scoring units then perhaps placing an objective marker deep inside his deployment zone is perhaps not the best idea. But if you're facing Wrath Warriors of the Dark gods, then you might consider trying to force your opponent to "waste" his crushers or his warriros to safeguard the objective.

    If he bites, then all is well for you: you're fighting 300+ points less, and you may also be able to contest the objective during the late game. If he doesn't then it means that the objective marker is ripe for the taking, if you have fast moving units. If you don't, then you will have to approach the scenario like the Hold Ground above.

    iii) Capture the Flags:
    That's where things start getting interesting! If your opponent hasn't read this guide, he may have small and relatively squishy candidates for this scenario. Pick your targets well: if you only pick small units that your opponent can afford to hide, you've just shot yourself in the foot. The point of the scenario is to single out units that will make your opponents think twice befoore putting them somewhere where they can influence the battle.

    A good example is shooting units: these are usually small, and they need line of sight to have any impact on the battle. Having line of sight means that they are also accessible by your magic missiles and shooting troops. You see where this is going...


    iv) Breakthrough:

    There are two ways to approach this: one is to plan on hitting the enemy lines, breaking them and punching through. The other is to send your fast units into the enemy deployment zone, while your combat units try to keep the opponent's scorers out of yours. It's like a Rugby game, really. Again, this depends on what you've brought to the battlefield: small heath rider units will excel in the second type of game, while Thicket Beasts and Forest Rangers will probably need to fight their way to the touchdown.

    Fun fact: the diagonal deployment usually allows a flanking archer unit to get inside the enemy deployment zone by moving and shooting, do not underestimate the power of archers deployed on a denied flank.



    So there you have it, my take on secondary objectives and how to tackle them. Looking forward to reading your thoughts!



    Smith




Última edición por daruk_el_rojo el Mar Jun 21, 2016 9:20 pm, editado 1 vez
Volver arriba Ir abajo
juniac
Flagelante Feliz
avatar

Club : Flagelante Feliz
Director de Gremio :
  • Juglar del Pincel (Artista)

Mensajes : 2363

MensajeTema: Re: compilado de tacticas elfas silvanas (ingles tomado de ninth age)   Mar Jun 21, 2016 11:22 am

Muy interesante. 
Y see, aplica para otros armies en algunos de los planteamientos.

_________________
Exiliados de Zharr Naggrund
Volver arriba Ir abajo
daruk_el_rojo
Flagelante Feliz
avatar

Club : Flagelante Feliz
Cargo :
  • Webmaster (Facebook)

Director de Gremio :
  • Señor de la Guerra (Wargames)

Títulos : Maestro forjador
Mensajes : 6107

MensajeTema: Re: compilado de tacticas elfas silvanas (ingles tomado de ninth age)   Mar Jun 21, 2016 9:19 pm

Hello again dear readers!

This week we've been exploring the issue of magic in the SE subforum (friendliest place on the 9th age boards, visit us!) so I thought I'd share my thoughts on the subject with you. Unlike the previous article, this one is more heavily focused on Sylvans but, again, some of the principles apply to all armies and may help you use and defend against magic more effectively.


Magic Defense:


The sylvan elves have a particular vulnerability to magic, for several reasons:


  • Many of their units are comprised of expensive, unarmoured units that rely on targetting penalties (skirmish/cover) and superior mobility to survive ranged damage and get into position. It comes as no surprise that a 2d6 s4 fireball that can potentially wreck a unit of Pathfinders has many generals searching for their dispel scroll.
  • Nothing can destroy your dreams as quickly as a couple of combat buffs that turn your combined multi-charge on the enemy’s main combat unit into a fiasco.
  • Treefathers: as much as I love them, the way some spells counter them is pretty sad. If you field them, you’d better shell out the cash to protect them, too.

And the list goes on.



Knowing your vulnerability is one thing, but taking it into account when building your list and when maneuvering on the battlefield can save you some precious dispel dice, which will in turn save you points from magic defense to spend on other stuff.


Here are some principles I have found useful:


  • Your units are not as vulnerable to magic missiles as you think they are: One of the main threats that panics SE generals into spending a ton of dice to dispel is magic missiles. It is a common concept that our units will melt away if a stiff breeze blows their way. I have found this to be untrue with most units.D6/2D6 S4 magic missiles may hurt, but most of the time they don’t: Bladedancers get a 5+ ward against them, Thicket Beasts are usually not hurt at all (even when you factor in the flammable reroll, you get 1-2w on average from a medium fireball) and the T4 and 4+ save of Kestrels will help them survive. So if faced with a dilemma between saving a small unit or having dice to stop more destructive spells, my advice is to let the magic missile through. Exceptions to this rule: Banishment on high value targets, Big Burning Brightness on otherworldly monsters.



  • Find the minimum effective unit size for each of your elements, then add some models to that: Even if you’re playing MSU, adding a couple of models to your Bladedancers means that they can take that magic missile and still have 4-5 models left to cause your opponent a headache. An added bonus to that is that you have a bit more leeway before you need to give your opponent the VPs for being below 25%.
  • Spell Ranges: you can limit the amount of magic coming your way by taking into account the spell range and type limitations. For example, a mage inside a unit that’s fighting in combat won’t be able to cast magic missiles, and even direct damage spells will be limited by the front arc. It may buy you a turn of respite, enough for your more dedicated mage hunters to get into place. A key to not being overwhelmed by the opponent magic phase is to never give a good target for multiple spells. For example, on the turn when you wish to dispel that all-important Mindrazor, make sure that your Pathfinders are outof range/arc for a 2d6 s4 fireball.
  • Don’t waste your scroll: my approach is to play as if I didn’t have the scroll, until the point where stopping a spell will win me the game (or prevent me from losing). More often than not, it is used to stop the desperate Beast Within that may make my charges bounce, or a Summer Regrowth on a monster I’ve been painstakingly taking down to its last wound for the entire game. There are games when I end up not using my scroll, but this also means that I’ve managed to contain the magic threat in another manner.
  • Risk assessment: at the start of the magic phase, think of which spell you absolutely need to dispel and keep your dice to do so. I am usually very conservative when it comes to dispelling, making sure to roll enough dice to make dispelling almost a certainty. It may so happen that there are multiple must-stop spells and the opponent has enough dice to cast them: in that case, your opponent probably played a better game, and your best bet is to try and even out the dice advantage by burning the scroll. Failed casting rolls also happen, so that is certainly another option to hope
  • Use miscasts: when your opponent miscasts, think if the spell cast will hurt you a lot or not. If you can weather it, it’s worth letting it through to deny him some more dice and limit his magic phase subsequently. The miscast damage is a bonus, but the desired effect here is that the casting pool goes down by at least 4 dice.

So to sum up, reaching for the scroll every time someone hurls a 2d6 s4 magic missile at you is a bad habit. Learn to weather the magic, deny your opponent juicy targets whenever possible, actively hunt mages and keep your scroll for the right moment. Bring enough bodies to be able to survive a round of magic and still be functional and learn to sacrifice a unit if it means that the rest of the army will advance unscathed.


With all these in mind, I’ve found that a wizard apprentice with a scroll is usually enough to ensure a decent magic defense, without going overboard in terms of points. Shutting an opponent’s magic phase is the HBE/DH way, whereas the SE need to evade and weather it while they move in for the kill.


Magic offense for Sylvans

An elven force with no magic support is a rare sight, and what is even rarer is one that does consistently well. This is because the elite status of the army lends itself well to either buffs (making the most out of the ton of attacks an elven block can put out, or making up for that T3) or long-range damaging spells that will even the odds against enemies that outnumber us.

So choosing your magic paths wisely will take you a step further towards victory. I used plural there, on purpose: mixing and matching magic paths is what I’ve found works best for the Sylvans, but more on that later.


How many spells?

Whether you’re bringing bound spells, druids, matriarchs, Treefather ancients, the first thing to decide is how many spells you need for your magic to have an impact. This varies depending on what you want your magic to accomplish, since a single Fireball will have a smaller effect than a well-timed Curse of the Wildwood.

A good rule of thumb for me is to bring at least 4 spells: odds are that at any given point of the battle you’ll have at least two spellsthat can have a significant impact on the battlefield, meaning that with average rolling you’ll get one of them off.

Everything is better in pairs:

This is decent advice in many aspects of life, and it applies even more so to wargaming: if you want a unit to perform a certain task, bring two elements capable of doing so. As far as magic is concerned, it’s always better to have two of each spell type, making sure that if you want a certain buff to go through in a critical phase, you’ll be able to power through the enemy magic defenses no matter the casting dice differential.

For example, if you bring a single magic missile and 3 or 4 combat spells (be it hexes or augments) it will be fairly easy for your opponent to keep dispelling your missile with dice early on, keeping the scroll for the closing steps of the game. In contrast, if you’ve got 2 ranged damage spells and 2 or 3 spells that can help out in combat, you will be able to either deal some early ranged damage or pull the scroll during the opening steps of the game.

Countering weaknesses vs capitalizing on your strengths:

What I find is a frequent error when it comes to magic support is that players use it to try and cover up weaknesses of their troops/battle line. This often backfires because magic is fickle and not to be relied on; Triple 1’s happen, as do miscasts on 2 dice on your opening spell, which will deny you crucial casting dice. So you’ve committed your troops where you shouldn’t have, banking on magic support, and you’re left there hanging.

I think that a safer and more effective approach is to play to your strengths, then use magic to tip the balance a bit further and go from «winnng slightly» to «winning by a substantial margin». Charging your T3 Lord against a Gargantula hoping that you’ll be able to buff him up to toughness 5+ with the path of Nature is a lot riskier than planning your entire magic selection so that you can getpath of Heavens rerolls on to hit/to wound and make the most of his Whirlwind Blade.

It goes without saying that some spells have optimal targets, the ones where your opponent will be searching for his scroll as soon as you pick up the dice: the goal is to have as many of these as possible, at all times. This will force the enemy to stretch his magic defenses thin and eventually some spells will get through.

Mixing Magic Paths:

Once you’ve played some games of the 9th age, you start noticing that some Paths make life difficult for you from the get-go, while others come into their own during the late game. To take an example that’s unrelated to Elves:

The path of Necromancy doesn’t really have any early game spells, which makes it a relatively bad stand-alone path. When facing an experienced opponent who will target his shooting/magic against units that will have a hard time getting wounds back withinvocation and/or can be wiped out in a single turn, the early game magic becomes an issue of dispelling the Danse (if there is one) and/or the single magic missile.

From the paths that we’ve got available, the ones that fit the description above are the path of Nature, Shadow, Death and, depending on the spells chosen, Wilderness. Don’t get me wrong, the spells of these paths are very powerful in the right hands, but they need a little push from a secondary path.

Ideally you want to mix long ranged potential with short ranged potential, and mix situational spells (for example, the Metalshiftingmagic missile from the path of Metal) with all-around spells (Luminous Bolts, Curse of the Wildwood are good examples)

Pull The Scroll fast:

No-scroll armies are currently the Unicorns of tournament play, in my experience. (although one might accurately point out that Unicorns are the Unicorns of tournament play.) While your opponent is holding on to his scroll (as he should be, see the «magic defense» installment) you cannot plan ahead and you cannot bank on your magic carrying the day.

So objective no.1 in the first turns is to create situations where not dispelling a spell (preferably two of them) will seriously hamper the opposing player’s chances at victory. This may be a well-placed magic missile, a 5-diced transmutation on a character bunker, a Comet in the opponent’s backline or a toughness debuff on an enemy monster within range of every bow in your army.

In the first magic phase pulling the scroll is a victory on its own, even if you cast no spells at all; From now on, with average dice and good planning you’ll be getting off one to two spells per turn.

Plan your magic phases, don’t waste dice:

Since the magic overhaul of v0.9, failing to cast a spell has never been easier. It happens to me at least once per game, but there are ways to avoid it. As a rule, I never cast on two dice anything that requires more than a 5+ to be cast, unless I need to put pressure on the opponent with a trickle magic phase. Anything between 6+ and 9+ is a 3 dice casting for me, and anything more than 10 is a huge investment that will require 4+ dice and had better be worth it.

That said, I find that «trickle» magic phases where you cast many low-cost spells are far more effective than going for the big casting. Unless you’ve pulled the scroll, and have a roll of 5-3 or so. That’s begging for a big casting of any spell that would win you the game, consequences be damned. Just remember that if you’re casting a RiP spell, your wizard needs to be alive for it to have any effect. So risking to blow him up may not be the best idea.

Which Paths? An eminence-based guide.

First off, let me state that the Sylvan Elves do NOT have a problem dealing with armour anymore: with Bladedancers (AP2), Forest Rangers (AP3)Wild Huntsmen (AP3), Kestrel Knights (AP2-3), Thicket Beasts (AP2-3), Lethal Strike from Spears and the S6 of the Treefathers (AP3), even 1+ save models will go down to 4+. So one of the biggest drives of path selection, historically speaking, goes out of the window.

Looking at our available casters, one will quickly notice a focus on Nature magic and Wilderness magic. Out of the two, I find the latter more useful and all-around, especially on a level 2 caster. Nature needs a wide spell selection to make the most of it, being thus better suited for a level 4 with the Tome of Arcane Lore.

One of the basic criteria for path selection is how the signature spell and the path attribute factor in the army plan: For these reasons two of my favorite paths are Heavens and White magic: getting extra wounds for your precious small units/characters and getting re-rolls for those pesky 1’s when rolling to wound seems like a bargain to me. On the contrary, I feel that the path of Lightis better suited to armies such as the Empire of Sonnstahl or the Undying Dynasties, since we’ve already got good leadership and high mobility and attack rate without the need for spells. All of the paths in between are decent choices, in the right setting.

My usual set-up consists of a level 2 Matriach of Wilderness, a level 2 Druid of White magic (sometimes Fire as a substitute) and a Briar Maiden wizard conclave. On average, this gives me 2 to 3 magic missiles (Luminous bolts and Insect Swarm if I can pick it) and 3 to 4 multi-task spells: Curse of the Wildwood, Cataclysm, Guiding Hand, Beast Within all fall into that category.

An interesting alternative would be twin wilderness mages, the wizard conclave and the ring of fire; Still a good amount of ranged damage, plus the potential for double Beasts within and/or double Curse of the Wildwood.


Obviously, choice of path depends on what your army list looks like: if you’re one to play with big bricks of Forest Guard and Forest Rangers, supported by Treefathers, then Nature magic for some regeneration, healing and toughness boosts is a good option. If you’re playing avoidance, then Fire and/or Heavens is your friend. And if, like me, you’re a fan of getting up close and personal with multiple maneuver elements, then a mix of combat hexes, boosts to strenth to make the most of our high attack rate and magic missiles to take care of the enemy long ranged battery is what you should be looking for.


As for me, I’m impressed that you managed to read this far! As far as incoherent ramblings go, this one is a masterwork! I look forward to reading your comments on what works and what doesn't for you in terms of magic offense/defense.

Until the next time, happy hunting and enjoy Summer Solstice if you're somewhere where it doesn't rain all summer long.


Smith
Volver arriba Ir abajo
Maka
Flagelante Feliz
avatar

Club : Flagelante Feliz
Mensajes : 1549

MensajeTema: Re: compilado de tacticas elfas silvanas (ingles tomado de ninth age)   Miér Jun 22, 2016 3:13 am

muy buenos ambos, hay muhas cosas interesantes
Volver arriba Ir abajo
Ratly_Bonsai
Flagelante Feliz
avatar

Club : Flagelante Feliz
Cargo :
  • Webmaster (Foro)

Director de Gremio :
  • Eruptito Supremo (Cine y Literatura)

Mensajes : 3959

MensajeTema: Re: compilado de tacticas elfas silvanas (ingles tomado de ninth age)   Miér Jun 22, 2016 11:50 am

No he podido leerlos completos, espero sacarle el tiempo pronto...
Volver arriba Ir abajo
Maka
Flagelante Feliz
avatar

Club : Flagelante Feliz
Mensajes : 1549

MensajeTema: Re: compilado de tacticas elfas silvanas (ingles tomado de ninth age)   Miér Jun 22, 2016 9:45 pm

vale la pena, tiene cosas muy estrategicas, que al menos yo nunca habia pensado
Volver arriba Ir abajo
Contenido patrocinado




MensajeTema: Re: compilado de tacticas elfas silvanas (ingles tomado de ninth age)   

Volver arriba Ir abajo
 
compilado de tacticas elfas silvanas (ingles tomado de ninth age)
Ver el tema anterior Ver el tema siguiente Volver arriba 
Página 1 de 1.
 Temas similares
-
» Peliculas y series en ingles
» Venta NA del 97 en verde ingles A/A
» pagina especializada en preparacion de motocicletas(ingles)
» MANUAL TALLER PDF (ingles): FORD SIERRA HAYNES
» MANUAL USUARIO (ingles): HUMMER H2 (2003)

Permisos de este foro:Puedes responder a temas en este foro.
FLAGELANTE FELIZ :: Gremio de Wargames :: Salón de Tácticas y Estrategia-
Responder al temaCambiar a: